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Rear Brake Question

BULL

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#61
For reference, this is the same pad I posted earlier in the thread, same pn and revision as yours.

Odd...
 


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BULL

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#62
now that I have 1200 miles on this car....will switching the pads to a full sweep PowerStop set cause issues bedding to the rotor?
No, but it must be done correctly
 


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SNeal5966

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Thread Starter #63
No, but it must be done correctly
By that I assume you are referring to the bed in procedure on the box? I am very good about doing that stuff as prescribed no worries.
 


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#64
Actually, not exactly, but the box procedure is a good start


In short, the box procedure is the MINIMUM process. I found with mine that I had to be very aggressive with it and do it twice. BE VERY CAUTIOUS! You can easily boil your fluid when you do this! If you boil your fluid, you will not be able to stop!

I apologize if you know this, but I say this not only for you, but for anyone else that might read this.

Also, many do not realize that "bedding" is NOT a "one and done" procedure. You can "unbed" your pads with driving uncharacteristic of the pads design.
 


Old Mopar Guy

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#65
now that I have 1200 miles on this car....will switching the pads to a full sweep PowerStop set cause issues bedding to the rotor?
Nope, I wouldn't expect any problems. I’d get those new pads on there asap and never look back.
 


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Thread Starter #66
Actually, not exactly, but the box procedure is a good start


In short, the box procedure is the MINIMUM process. I found with mine that I had to be very aggressive with it and do it twice. BE VERY CAUTIOUS! You can easily boil your fluid when you do this! If you boil your fluid, you will not be able to stop!

I apologize if you know this, but I say this not only for you, but for anyone else that might read this.

Also, many do not realize that "bedding" is NOT a "one and done" procedure. You can "unbed" your pads with driving uncharacteristic of the pads design.
Thanks for your help BULL. I will give it a little bit of cool off in between doing it twice then? Sounds good!
 


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#67
Ok this all great information but you gotta' ask yourself why? Meaning, that's no accident. That pad is cut that way. Again meaning, this is an EXTRA process and more time (and theoretically money) to make it. You can see the material was there and taken away. There must be a reason. Maybe they recalibrated the break pressures front to rear at some point in '19. I dk. But I will say this, even with what looks like a waste of surface area, my car stops on a dime. Now I'm really wondering. ??
 


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#68
Thanks for your help BULL. I will give it a little bit of cool off in between doing it twice then? Sounds good!

A "little" being subjective, as stated, it's critical that you don't boil the fluid. With that said, for ME, I pushed it to the limits. It's also important to understand that I'm running Willwood EXP 600 DOT-4 fluid, so my boil temp is even higher than the O.E. stuff.

If you're going to the track, a premium DOT-4 fluid is something you should strongly consider.

https://www.hellcatforum.org/thread...ystem-fluid-flush-or-fluid-type-upgrade.3160/

I like the Wilwood because it's an excellent balance of price over performance. There are arguably better fluids out there, but at substantially higher cost than even the Wilwood (2X or more) which in my view is pretty expensive, especially if you're refreshing at the track each session like many do.


https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0
 


BULL

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#69
There must be a reason.

Yeah, exactly, the current $64,000 question of the day...
 


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Thread Starter #70
A "little" being subjective, as stated, it's critical that you don't boil the fluid. With that said, for ME, I pushed it to the limits. It's also important to understand that I'm running Willwood EXP 600 DOT-4 fluid, so my boil temp is even higher than the O.E. stuff.

If you're going to the track, a premium DOT-4 fluid is something you should strongly consider.

https://www.hellcatforum.org/thread...ystem-fluid-flush-or-fluid-type-upgrade.3160/

I like the Wilwood because it's an excellent balance of price over performance. There are arguably better fluids out there, but at substantially higher cost than even the Wilwood (2X or more) which in my view is pretty expensive, especially if you're refreshing at the track each session like many do.


https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0
I didn't realize that these cars were not already filled with DOT-4.....what do they come with DOT-3? I didn't look at the reservoir yet since it's under that little plastic panel. When I removed the CDV from my clutch line I didn't lose any meaningful amount of fluid (lost total of like 3 drops) so I wasn't concerned about checking levels...
 


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#71
Ok this all great information but you gotta' ask yourself why? Meaning, that's no accident. That pad is cut that way. Again meaning, this is an EXTRA process and more time (and theoretically money) to make it. You can see the material was there and taken away. There must be a reason. Maybe they recalibrated the break pressures front to rear at some point in '19. I dk. But I will say this, even with what looks like a waste of surface area, my car stops on a dime. Now I'm really wondering. ??
If you were going to recalibrate, you would change compound. Not cut the pad in half. If my rotors looked anything like those rusty ones! I would be screaming mad!
 


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#72
How do we get ahold of those dodgecares people on here?
Wave chicken foot, rattle gourd, and intone 'oh mighty dodge cares, appear to me today!"
 


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#73
This whole issue is complete bullshit for me. The fact dodge has said nothing about this at all is pretty bizarre.
 


BULL

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#74
I didn't realize that these cars were not already filled with DOT-4.....what do they come with DOT-3? I didn't look at the reservoir yet since it's under that little plastic panel. When I removed the CDV from my clutch line I didn't lose any meaningful amount of fluid (lost total of like 3 drops) so I wasn't concerned about checking levels...

DOT-4 is much more hydrophilic than DOT-3 is, it is mandatory that it be changed at least once a year, more in other climates, it exceeds the PITA factor for most owners.
 


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#75
DOT-4 is much more hydrophilic than DOT-3 is, it is mandatory that it be changed at least once a year, more in other climates, it exceeds the PITA factor for most owners.
Is replacing the fluid on these cars as easy as starting at the back right corner and pumping and filling or is there more to it?
 


BULL

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#76
Is replacing the fluid on these cars as easy as starting at the back right corner and pumping and filling or is there more to it?

If you are willing to skip the little bit in the ABS system, yes, kind of.

Follow the link I posted above for more details.

;)
 


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SNeal5966

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Thread Starter #77
DOT-4 is much more hydrophilic than DOT-3 is, it is mandatory that it be changed at least once a year, more in other climates, it exceeds the PITA factor for most owners.
Gotcha.....Well I am not up to speed on brake fluid! LOL Thanks for the info, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me and the forum!
 


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#78
If you are willing to skip the little bit in the ABS system, yes, kind of.

Follow the link I posted above for more details.

;)
Copy that, Thanks!
 


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#79
OK so they made a deliberate change for some reason, or possibly a substitution since I could see this being turned down for a smaller rotor using the same pad......I took the wheel off and tried to get a picture without taking it out....put my finger in there and was like....where's the pad? Then I said aww hell with it, I do have a small ballpeen and a punch that works....so let's pull them out.

This kind of has me P.O.'d a little.....WTF Dodge???

The last picture has the PN, if anyone wants to cross reference that. I am wondering what the reason is....seems like a waste of rotor surface to me! Unless there is a good reason for this shit.....PowerStop here I come!

View attachment 14826
View attachment 14827 View attachment 14828
View attachment 14829
View attachment 14830
View attachment 14831
Just looked at my rear pad and it's identical (well, except for the wear groove in the middle)
 


stonewall

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#80
Funkychicken didn't ever migrate to this forum from the old one did he? I would like to hear his take on this, as he is a FCA trained tech.
 




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