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anyone try the m and h 325 45 17?

AlleyCat

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#1
They look pretty good with a 28-inch height and very wide. 10–12-inch rim recommended.
 


Unholy707

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#2
Not tall enough
 


Unholy707

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#3
Need a 30” tall tire with the 3.09.
 


Unholy707

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#4
You want sidewall.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #5
315 50 17 or 315 55 17 Mickey? I'm thinking the 55 to aid in traction.
 


Unholy707

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#6
The 55 will crash into the front of the wheel well if you don’t have a cradle lockout. I want to run them but you’re rolling the dice, they’re almost 32” tall I believe.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #7
315 50 17 or 315 55 17 Mickey?
The 55 will crash into the front of the wheel well if you don’t have a cradle lockout. I want to run them but you’re rolling the dice, they’re almost 32” tall I believe.
30.4 inches. I have a cradle lock out. Been in there a long time. So not sure how good it is working.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #8
By the way for the street the nitto 305 55 20 will not work. Found out today. 32.1 inches. Discount tire put them on. Without the car moving it hit the front. They were nice and gave me back all funds. I apologized to them. Did not know that was going to happen.
 


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#9
I tried them in a 17 inch and it was too tall but that for my Hawk. They fit its just the rears were too tall. No bueno with AWD has to be within 3% of each other. Sux cause its a beefy tire and I wasted a $1000 and sold em for $300 after they sat for sale for 2 months smh.

The 45 is too short. Wont work.

By the way for the street the nitto 305 55 20 will not work. Found out today. 32.1 inches. Discount tire put them on. Without the car moving it hit the front. They were nice and gave me back all funds. I apologized to them. Did not know that was going to happen.
 


vortecd

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#10
I had the 275/50/17 I think on my daytona, they were ok. The M/Ts I thought were better after I switched

Still waiting on Hoosier to make the correct size DOT tire for our cars. They would have done well if they had some tires 7 years ago. I had their 15's on my last 2 mustangs and loved them
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #11
what i have learned unfortunately with a 1000 rwhp car it does not work to try to use a drag radial on a 20-inch street rim, drive to the track, not change tires, and expect to get down the track with 20 inch drag radials. If you have access to hp tuners have a tune for the street in which you limit torque output and timing by a lot on wot. I reduced my timing on e85 to a high of 11 or so at high rpm and it is lower than that for other rpms. But the car is drivable even at wot. Actually, fun and controllable. Now if you only drive the car once in a while on the street in sunny warm dry climates by all means keep your hot tune in there with your sticky Mickeys and have fun. I think that is unholys MO.

For me I have 94K on my car so obviously I drive it alot. So I will go for the 30.4-inch mickeys, get them mounted on the 17 inch bead locks, change tires, uyyy!!!, turn on the 21 degree advance tune, and get down the track. I have front runners. But I may leave those off and just tell myself what ever time I get subtract about .05 to .1 as the time I could of gotten with my front runners.
 


vortecd

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#12
I have had fast cars my whole life and can drive pretty normal on the street. I'm currently running atturos on my car because I know even drag radials are not going to hook on the street and these will last way longer and are cheaper. A stock scat pack or even a Hellcat with some 20" drag radials does make the car more fun to drive but once you turn it up nothing will work for a daily tire. I don't think of an M&T as a street tire and would never daily them.

Turning the timing down like you said can help. Mine is at 17 degrees and is the same tune I use at the track. For me it is just driving my car daily and I don't have to put my foot in it every time I'm driving it, I just know it has the power
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #13
I'm looking at my Hoosier that has been sitting around for three years. It is 29.5 inches tall and without a spacer it was hitting a little on hard throttle response at the strip. So when I do buy new ones maybe I'll stay away from the 30.4 mickeys.
 


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#14
I run MT ET R 315/50/17 on Beadlocks and on the track they're the ticket. I've been high 1.40's at 4875 race weight on a full tilt non-launch optimized E85 tune with over 21* in it. Lately I've been using launch Control and it's been consistent mid/low 1.50's and only a .113 spread across all of drag week.

I have the lockouts and all the inner fender work but don't see the need to jump to the 315/55 when the 15" rears should be the next logical track move anyways. Plenty of guys take this combo in a lighter car to 1.30's in the short.

It does suck that it's literally the perfect size and only one person makes it.

EDIT: also...at this power...there isn't a tire in the world that will "hook" on the street. Some do better than others but they're all garbage at the end of the day. Pick your favorite dumpsterfire.

I just run the factory 20's in factory size with the cheapest speed rated tires I can find. They all smoke the same. Cosmo thru Michelin and everyone inbetween.
 


Unholy707

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#15
3.09 with the 315/50 mts here - consistent 1.4x 60 just stabbing the gas from idle. Car might as well be a bracket car
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #16
Before my Frankenstein heads and 1700s.with those Hoosiers on at a da of 4100-4500 feet I got a 1.38. Launched at idle in first gear. That was with front runners. I think I'll use the old Hoosiers for October 19th. But no front runners. Then go to the mts in the 50 height.
 


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AlleyCat

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Thread Starter #17
IMG_0799.jpeg
 




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