Active Interchiller Feedback

[16GoManGoHC2]

That looks like an Abortion bro..... I wasnt even aware anyone other than FI made one. Do they offer any upgrades like FI does? U can buy the bigger IC pump from FI thats universal it replaces ur stock pump.

I can run mine with the AC that still goes into the cabin but I never use ut cause I want it all going to the chiller lol so I just suffer and be hot ha.

Rippafag has one for the Durango thats plug and play. Never heard back on the Trackhawk version. That little weasel tends to make posts about shit hes offering then "Crickets"....
....
Did the same with his 15 inch rear conversion for the Trackhawk. When I called to inquite about it suddenly wasnt offered it to anyone and it was gonna be for the "Shop truck" only. Suk a dick Rippafag. The dude has the WORST reputation in this communty complete clown!

IC works well. It was 65 degrees out.

View attachment 139689

HMI upper right says it was 45 out?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Thanks guys for chiming in. So potentially, if my I/C coolant temps can stay in the 40s, I’m probably cool enough to prevent IAT retard?

@Unholy707 can you remind me you, you have the IC chiller with HX and by pass valve in place?

@16GoManGoHC2 I recall an old thread where you were thinking about this brand chiller. did you ever end up buying/installing?

Intercooler temps in the 40’s is better than 100+!! YES, it will help allot!!

I ran a killer chiller for a few years, it did pretty good. It started acting up about a year ago. The TXV valve went bad on it. I replaced it with an FI stage two set up just recently just finished that about two weeks ago. Retained the stock intercoolers for cold weather no AC use, 3 way valve either goes through chiller or through stock coolers.

 

[Unholy707]

Yes, IC chiller. Small HX removed, kept big HX plummed in with 3 way bypass valve. I bypass the big HX with the 3 way valve when I have the AC on or AC and drag valve. Sending the fluid through the HX will just reheat your chiller coolant

Thanks guys for chiming in. So potentially, if my I/C coolant temps can stay in the 40s, I’m probably cool enough to prevent IAT retard?

@Unholy707 can you remind me you, you have the IC chiller with HX and by pass valve in place?

@16GoManGoHC2 I recall an old thread where you were thinking about this brand chiller. did you ever end up buying/installing?

 

[Unholy707]

I didn’t realize you moved yours to the front of the bumper

Intercooler temps in the 40’s is better than 100+!! YES, it will help allot!!

I ran a killer chiller for a few years, it did pretty good. It started acting up about a year ago. The TXV valve went bad on it. I replaced it with an FI stage two set up just recently just finished that about two weeks ago. Retained the stock intercoolers for cold weather no AC use, 3 way valve either goes through chiller or through stock coolers. View attachment 141907 View attachment 141908 View attachment 141909 View attachment 141910 View attachment 141911 View attachment 141912

 

[Unholy707]

That IAT below ambient by that much is really nice. I need to get that Whipple air intake. My coolant temps get that low with the drag valve on

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I didn’t realize you moved yours to the front of the bumper

The FI HX was too big to go under the headlight where the KC unit was, had no choice. The FI unit is twice the size of the KC unit. The 140 oz hopper tank is still under the passenger side headlight. I can have those made too if anyone is interested but their pretty expensive anymore, labor and materials have gone up 25-30% in the last 4 years, wonder why 🤔

That IAT below ambient by that much is really nice. I need to get that Whipple air intake. My coolant temps get that low with the drag valve on

The Pyrol shield under the intake tube and TB helps keep IAT down allot, an amazing amount. This thing. I have snout 10 of them left if anyone wants one of the last ones I’ll ever have let me know.

 

[Unholy707]

Are you still using the air box with the intake, or did you have to remove it for the FI refrigerant lines?

 

[GNBRETT]

Just keep in mind if ur using a 3.8 drag pack with the bigger intercooler it will not get as cold as one with out or with the 3.0 in it. It just takes more fluid to cool. I can still get it to 30 below ambient but my buddy is able to get his to like 36-38 below with the 3.0.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

@16GoManGoHC2 thanks for offer on heat shield. My intake air pipe is almost straight down now off the TB so I’m not sure if it’ll fit naturally?
But that’s a good thought, maybe I need to consider heat wrapping my air intake pipe.

• Did you guys refill with 134a or 1234yf, and do think that would make a difference? shop did 1234 on mine. My cabin air remains very cold when drag valve is off.

• Lets assume for a second all the kits (sans ice box or additional tank) are more less as capable as the other within a few degrees.. could my set up be contributing to warmer IATs/engine bay and contribute to why my temps aren’t reaching what you guys are — cat less midpipes, low mount turbos, compound boost (stock SC and pulleys).

These were the best I got last night.
Ambient 70F

One is during highway cruise, other right after stopping from the highway off ramp. Speeds are displayed below RPM-7. Top left is the IAT. I was cruising highway at that speed for 20 minutes before I finally made it down to 33 I/C coolant. Drag valve on entire time.

city cruising even with drag valve IAT 40 over ambient and I/C coolant best is down to 40F range. Without drag valve, add about 5F to IATs and 15F to I/C coolant.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Are you still using the air box with the intake, or did you have to remove it for the FI refrigerant lines?

No, Whipple air box and intake tube from head light still fit. Can’t really even tell there’s a chiller hiding under there. See filter and air box in there?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

@16GoManGoHC2 thanks for offer on heat shield. My intake air pipe is almost straight down now off the TB so I’m not sure if it’ll fit naturally?
But that’s a good thought, maybe I need to consider heat wrapping my air intake pipe.

• Did you guys refill with 134a or 1234yf, and do think that would make a difference? shop did 1234 on mine. My cabin air remains very cold when drag valve is off.

• Lets assume for a second all the kits (sans ice box or additional tank) are more less as capable as the other within a few degrees.. could my set up be contributing to warmer IATs/engine bay and contribute to why my temps aren’t reaching what you guys are — cat less midpipes, low mount turbos, compound boost (stock SC and pulleys).

These were the best I got last night.
Ambient 70F

One is during highway cruise, other right after stopping from the highway off ramp. Speeds are displayed below RPM-7. Top left is the IAT. I was cruising highway at that speed for 20 minutes before I finally made it down to 33 I/C coolant. Drag valve on entire time.

city cruising even with drag valve IAT 40 over ambient and I/C coolant best is down to 40F range. Without drag valve, add about 5F to IATs and 15F to I/C coolant.


View attachment 141928

View attachment 141929

Those temps are plenty cold enough.

Mine gets to under 32F within 2 miles of driving. Recovers from a 1-2-3-4 0-150 pull in about 2 miles as well to under 32.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Hmm.
Are any of your interchiller lines heat wrapped? Same question for @Unholy707

I’m just trying to figure out why my system doesn’t get as cold.. I’m glad to hear you think I should be in a pretty good spot overall. It was a very expensive modification all things considered, at this point I just want to optimize to its max potential.

 

[Unholy707]

Hmm.
Are any of your interchiller lines heat wrapped? Same question for @Unholy707

I’m just trying to figure out why my system doesn’t get as cold.. I’m glad to hear you think I should be in a pretty good spot overall. It was a very expensive modification all things considered, at this point I just want to optimize to its max potential.

Every single one of them. And for every one I have wrapped, @16GoManGoHC2 has them triple wrapped lol

 

[Unholy707]

Use vibrant extreme wrap for the ones with tight clearance. You want to insulate your suction line, not your high pressure liquid line for the AC

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Have any of you needed to increase engine idle RPM when the AC compressor kicks on??

Have been dealing with stalls while driving, only occurs st low speed (0-10 mph) and typically while off throttle. Can happen in reverse as well. only occurs with the AC on. It’s intermittent and a bit random I.e. it’s not immediately after I turn the AC on, the engine stalls. But have been daily driving for a week now, AC off whole time (I still have my heat exchanger and 3 way by pass so it’s fine temps don’t go up that bad). No stalls, no near stalls. Of note, not related to intercooler bricks condensation — the temporal pattern does not fit, though I understand the phenomenon and conditions that will produce that issue.

again, has anyone had their tuner reccomend raising the engine idle when AC compressor comes on? Never heard of this suggestion. I would think we need to trouble shoot mechanical aspect of AC first (clutch spin, Freon charge pressure, any solenoids or valves associated?)

thanks,
Matt

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Have any of you needed to increase engine idle RPM when the AC compressor kicks on??

Have been dealing with stalls while driving, only occurs st low speed (0-10 mph) and typically while off throttle. Can happen in reverse as well. only occurs with the AC on. It’s intermittent and a bit random I.e. it’s not immediately after I turn the AC on, the engine stalls. But have been daily driving for a week now, AC off whole time (I still have my heat exchanger and 3 way by pass so it’s fine temps don’t go up that bad). No stalls, no near stalls. Of note, not related to intercooler bricks condensation — the temporal pattern does not fit, though I understand the phenomenon and conditions that will produce that issue.

again, has anyone had their tuner reccomend raising the engine idle when AC compressor comes on? Never heard of this suggestion. I would think we need to trouble shoot mechanical aspect of AC first (clutch spin, Freon charge pressure, any solenoids or valves associated?)

thanks,
Matt

Is yours a stick or auto? Hydraulic or electric steering?
BTW, an intake pipe heat shield will help keep IAT down and take some heat away from the intake charge so the chiller won’t have to, ie possible even lower temps. I have a few left if you want one let me know, once this material is gone there will be no more. Reflective side goes down, black side up, keeps radiator heat off the intake tube and bottom of TB.

 

[Quiller303]

PM sent.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

@16GoManGoHC2 thank you, I will keep this in mind. I have a trackhawk, hellion twin turbo added so intake pipe direction is a little different but I think it would still work with a little nip/tuck. I will keep in touch, appreciate the offer.

specifically, I just wanna figure out the stalls. Vehicle is incapable of stalling with AC off. No near stalls either. I have been able to drive for week straight without AC as I have the oem heat exchanger and 3 way bypass.
But with ac on, just a matter of time and it stalls ever 3-4 days in the conditions described. tuner wants to increase engine idle rpm when AC compressor comes on maybe to prevent the stalls. Never heard of such a tune modification with interchiller installs. I just wonder if anyone else has had to do this. I’m familiar with condensation from the bricks causing rough warm starts; this is not that.

 

[fubar569]

I can say that mine does not stall on the flex tune but has had intermittent issues from time to time on the race tune. Which I can understand since that is meant to be a point A to point B rocket ship tune so a little less time was spent fine-tuning the particulars. I still have no complaints though.

My IC chiller doesn't quite get the temps that low but they're consistently in the 40s. I had an incident where I lost the suction line to the compressor at the track and bled all of my refrigerant out. So I'm sure that the charge could be tweaked and I could recover that performance but since it worked solid all year I'm not in any hurry to change it right now

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Got it. I have a true flex fuel, adjusts on the fly (Satera tuning). Does not seem fuel dependent (has happened with 93 and as high as e74%). If anyone can look at their tune and check if the idle RPM is adjusted up when the AC comes on that would be helpful. Basically, I don’t have any reason to believe there is a mechanical issue, or issue with the chiller. Temps are consistent, condenser does not make any noise when it comes on. Have not checked Freon charge, but I suspect it to be within normal range. Only surrogate that something mechanical could be off is the stalls related to AC on. As mentioned, it’s not immediate and not everytime. But only happen with AC on.

I’m not sure if changing idle Rpm is within normal limits after chillers go in. im familiar with only a few tune changes relative to chiller install — namely fuel adjustment on warm start to compensate for condensation dripping onto the cylinders when I/C drops below dew point and fan speed adjustments. Had not heard of what the tuner wants to try.. so I just wanted to see if anyone had heard of this.